Good things happen when Chef Pietro Vardeu, owner of Sardinia Enoteca Ristorante, gets bored. It’s what caused the native of Sardinia, Italy, to leave his homeland in 1976 and head for London, where he began learning the food industry at such venerable London institutions as Scott’s Restaurant. He continued his on-the-job training in Florence, Italy, preferring to spend time working and observing in restaurant kitchens over attending “any of those boring schools.”
He left Florence in 1982 for New York City, where family friend Pino Luongo hired him as a waiter at Il Cantinori. Two years later, itching for something more challenging, he opened his first restaurant, Pappardella. Problems with the chef he hired from Italy prompted Vardeu to tackle the chef role himself, which helped launch the restaurant from neighborhood favorite to destination restaurant.
After a brief return to restaurant management at Pino Luongo’s Sapore di Mare, Vardeu again longed for a place of his own. Over the course of about five years, he took the Hamptons by storm, acting as chef and owner or co-owner of Basilico, I Santi, Calaluna and Cala di Volpe. Calaluna, his first restaurant to focus on Sardinian cuisine, was called “the hit of the resort season” by The New York Times, and he was invited to cook Sardinian meals three times by the James Beard Foundation. |
But boredom set in again and Vardeu left the chill of New York in 1996 for the warmer climates of Miami, working as food and beverage manager for the Graspa Group, helping them to open such restaurants as Tiramesu. Then last year, feeling that Miami – and Vardeu himself – was “starved for something fresh and new,” he and partner Tony Gallo opened Sardinia Enoteca Ristorante, featuring spit-fired meats, crisp “pane carasatu” flatbread, fregola pasta and other favorite foods from his native Sardinia.
Locals and critics alike have been raving about Vardeu and his new restaurant ever since. The New York Times’ Mark Bittmandescribed the food variously as “terrific,” “wonderful,” and “uncommonly good.” Lee Klein of Miami New Times called Sardinia “one of the best restaurants to ever set down in South Beach,” and Miami Herald’s Victoria Pesce Elliott found the food addictive, likening herself to “a drunk on a binge…finding myself drawn again and again to the incredible cuisine.” His first solo effort in Miami also landed him a 2007 Sterling Silver™ Emerging Tastemaker Award. In other words, Pietro Vardeau and the succulent Sardinian dishes served at his new restaurant are anything but boring. |